Month: August 2026

  • ’26 – Bringing in the Grass

    ’26 – Bringing in the Grass

    Somewhat earlier than last year, the small grass meadow that we grow for baling is ready to be harvested. While last year was our first time baling, we learned a huge amount, especially the importance of preparing for the first cut and getting the timing just right. Following on from the June article, we’re finally getting the grass in.

    Preparing all the grass equipment

    The preparation of the mower was covered a few weeks ago in the “John Wilder” article; however, it isn’t the only front-line kit that needed a ‘glow up’. Last season, I bought a New Holland 376 baler straight off a local field just as it had finished its baling season. That meant the baler was perfectly set up, having also been drawn by an identical Ford 7610 tractor. This was a great purchase; with everything dialled in, I only had to add string, but there were plenty of improvements to be made.

    Replacing the pickup tines

    I noticed last year that when running the baler, there were a few ‘strips’ of grass being left behind on every pass. The cause was worn or missing pickup tines. Without these thin metal rods getting close to the ground, not all of the gut and dried grass is brought up into the baler for packing.

    Pickup bands need removal to access the tines.
    Pickup bands need removal to access the tines.

    To reach the broken pickup tines, you need to remove the pickup bands (which guide the grass into the packing chamber). These mostly came out without a fight, although a few of the bolts were definitely not original.

    The old tines removed, with a new tine for comparison.
    The old tines removed, with a new tine for comparison.

    With the bands removed, you can remove the nut and bolt that secures the pickup tine set. The top row shows the nine failed tines which were removed. Hopefully it’s clear that they are all missing a leg; less obvious is the thinning of the tines when compared to the bright yellow new tines.

    Old tines join the wall of shame.
    Old tines join the wall of shame.

    The old tines get to join the failed tine collection. I have to confess that I didn’t change all of these tines. Digging anywhere near the previous owner’s workshop typically reveals a buried tine or two.

    Rebuilt with the new parts and the baler is ready for work.
    Rebuilt with the new parts and the baler is ready for work.

    An hour later, the failed tines are all replaced. The bright yellow covers on the new tines aren’t likely to stay this way for long, but for now, they look ready for action.

    At the end of last year’s harvest, the baler was cleaned and prepared for storage. This means all the settings, like the bale compression, were reset, so I will have a learning curve to get the adjustments right for this season.

    One man waited to mow

    This year’s weather has been rather variable. A heat wave while I was away followed by months and months of rain. Okay, maybe just weeks, but when you’re waiting to bring the grass in, time seems to stop being linear.

    Is it too late to mow this field?
    Is it too late to mow this field?

    At the start of June, I was starting to get a little worried. The mixed-leaf meadow has a wide variety of grasses, and some had already reached maturity. Locally, farmers taking in silage had long since cut it, but nobody had brought in grass in bales.

    Lower areas are looking ripe for harvest.
    Lower areas are looking ripe for harvest.

    The on/off nature of the weather made timing tricky. Every time I geared up to cut the grass, the weather turned. In preparation, I had already hand-pulled all the docks and reeds. Then on a bright day, I brought the headland down with the spearhead mower. After that, it was a waiting game, trying to find enough of a gap in the weather to get the grass bailed and brought in!

    Off to mow the meadow

    By Friday the 19th of June, I’d had enough of waiting. Rain was forecast for Monday afternoon; however, the three days before the rain were forecast to be dry and peak at more than 30°C every day. Would this be enough time to get the grass mown, dried and bailed?

    Reconditioned mower makes a perfect cut.
    Reconditioned mower makes a perfect cut.

    At about 8 am on Friday, I was already making progress on the mowing. A brief delay came from a failed weld in the drivetrain. Apparently, my stick-welding attempt wasn’t strong enough for the PTO shaft.

    Emergency repair to the PTO holds up.
    Emergency repair to the PTO holds up.

    Being the more readily accessible short shaft, it was quicker to take it off the mower and run it up to the workshop. Preheated with a blowtorch and MIG-welded with plenty of heat, the speedy repair held for the rest of the mowing.

    Mowing complete, I just need the weather to behave.
    Mowing complete, I just need the weather to behave.

    By 10 am, the grass was all down, save for the few small strips I had missed. I’m convinced I could have managed a little more ground speed, but after all the work on the Wilder mower, I didn’t want to break it through haste.

    A fantastic mowing setup.
    A fantastic mowing setup.

    Throwing myself into bringing the grass home added an extra challenge, as I was due to take the family on holiday that afternoon. Fortunately, the weekend was at a local vintage tractor show; unfortunately, this meant I couldn’t take the 7610 to the show as planned!

    Tedding through the weekend

    By Friday afternoon, I was all packed for the weekend away, the tractor loaded on the trailer, and the kids’ bikes strapped on top. This left me with just enough time for tedding with the Lely HayZip.

    Lely Hazip manual diagram for spreading.

    When the grass was cut with the John Wilder mower, the chopped sward came out in a lovely, neat pile running up and down the field. This was great for getting the grass on the top of the pile clean, but the grass underneath wouldn’t dry as fast. The solution is to spread the pile.

    Honestly, this picture is included so I can find it next season!

    Exposing the bottom of the pile to sun and wind to encourage drying means setting theHay Zip to the ‘spreading’ position. In this configuration, the grass pile would be thrown up and wide behind the tractor, exposing the damp underlying crop and helping air get under allthe cut grass.

    The cut grass starts to dry.
    The cut grass starts to dry.

    By Friday afternoon, the grass was already a healthy brown colour. I was starting to worry that I was pulling too much moisture out of the grass, reducing its nutritional value.

    After turning multiple times, the sun dried grass is ready for baling.
    After turning multiple times, the sun dried grass is ready for baling.

    Over the weekend, I managed to nip back home a few times to turn the grass. By Monday morning, the hay was looking just right for baling. I was back to work and fairly worn out; however, the forecast rain turned into a light shower in the afternoon, and the rest of the week looked fantastically dry. I may just have got the timing perfect.

    Rowing Up

    While the spread grass will dry much better, if I run the bailer over now, the fluffy layer of grass near the floor will struggle to be picked up by the new tines without dragging them on the floor.

    Lely Hazip manual diagram for rowing up.
    Lely Hazip manual diagram for rowing up.

    To get a nice tall pile of grass that the baler can collect, the Lely HayZip is deployed again, but in the windrowing position. The ‘windrow’ can also be used to help encourage drying and protect the crop from light rain.

    A change of angle will gather, rather than spread, the grass.
    A change of angle will gather, rather than spread, the grass.

    A change in the angle of the tines and bringing the ‘gates’ closer together are all that are needed to turn the spread grass into a lovely, tall windrow that will continue to dry and make bailing a success.

    The dried grass is rowed up and ready for the last process.
    The dried grass is rowed up and ready for the last process.

    By Monday afternoon, the windrows were formed and allowed a few more hours to dry in the sun. This was a frantic, busy lunch break, but so incredibly satisfying to see. The pictures don’t really do justice to the size of these rows; the majority are too high to step over.

    Baling the dried grass

    On Monday evening, I was all set to bale the meadow into conventional bales. The New Holland 376 was pulled onto the field, set to its work position, and the baling twine levels were checked. This is only a small meadow, but the New Holland makes easy work of it.

    Baling the field in the evening sun.
    Baling the field in the evening sun.

    With a focus on getting the baling done before dark, I didn’t get too many ‘action shots’ of the baler in action. I also managed to miss taking a picture of the first ‘bale’, which would have made a great shot, as I forgot to engage the knotter and managed an eight-foot bale before I realised.

    All baled before dark, and just needs brining in.
    All baled before dark, and just needs bringing in.

    By 8 pm the whole field was baled, and despite a brief and light shower, I’d managed to dodge the rain. I have some learning to do; early mistakes created a mess at one point. But I must have learned something compared to last year having not broken a single shear bolt on the baler.

    Lower bale count than last year, but with a good reason.
    Lower bale count than last year, but with a good reason.

    This year’s total bale count was 115 on the counter. This is down a little from last year’s 160 bales; however, the quality of this year’s bales is a huge improvement. More consistent lengths, better compaction, and more consistent bale weights. I was proud to get any bales last year, but this year I’m equally happy about the bale quality.

    Bringing the bales under cover

    The bale sledge makes collecting the bales a lot easier, leaving them in piles of eight. This saves a lot of time compared to wandering up and down every row. However, the bale grab, which should pick up all eight bales at the same time, has yet to go through the workshop, so collection is still very much a manual process.

    Friends and family help bring the bales in.
    Friends and family help bring the bales in.

    However, I missed most of this fun, having found myself lying in a hospital bed after a dive from my motorbike. Fortunately, a small army was deployed to collect the bales, and I can’t thank them enough. Deploying the car trailer and the Fergie, they managed to drag all the bales back to the barn.

    Stacking bales by hand is a definite team effort.
    Stacking bales by hand is a definite team effort.

    Then, with some back-breaking effort, the troop managed to get all the bales under cover and stacked. This is definitely a task where more hands make the work lighter, but I absolutely must get the eight-bale grab working for next year’s harvest.

    All Under Cover

    With the last bale stacked and the barn doors shut, that’s this year’s harvest done — 115 bales lighter on the field, and a barn a lot fuller. It’s not lost on me that I only got to watch the last part of it from a hospital bed; huge thanks again to everyone who turned up with trailers, tractors and strong backs to get it in before the weather turned. The mower, the baler, and the tines all did their job — next year, I’m making the bale grab do its job. And maybe finding a bale elevator.

  • ’26 – June – The Weather Turns

    ’26 – June – The Weather Turns

    June this year was super busy on the farm, starting relatively gently, then flying into chaos. And I really do mean flying- off my motorcycle and into the hospital. However, before the smashing end to the month, we brought in the grass, laid the foundations, and installed drainage for something I didn’t realise we’d need so much!

    Not covered in this month’s round up;

    • Gory details of my motorcycle accident, I’ll leave them for another day.
    • Bailing of the field, which I’ll cover in a separate article.
    • Our family trip to the Kelsall Steam Rally: there simply isn’t space.

    Husbandry

    The Kune Kune pigs continue to grow weekly, mostly hitting their targeted growth rate. That’s a visual-only assessment, though! However, it’s the cats that seem to be the most active on the farm. Possibly a result of all the ‘young’ wildlife.

    Felis Catus

    The farm manager has told me that the recent updates have been short on cat updates: “There have been no cats, and they are very cute cats”, apparently. As critical vermin control on the farm, they are a very important part of the family, and I apologise to the farm manager for this lack of content.

    Clyde is preparing himself for the evening hunt.
    Clyde is preparing himself for the evening hunt.

    Both Bonnie and Clyde have settled into a mouse-hunting routine. They generally sleep through the day, then hunt by night. Clyde gets in such a stuper that he’s hard to rouse, especially when he’s in ‘my’ seat.

    Clyde is eradicating his latest field mouse capture.
    Clyde is eradicating his latest field mouse capture.

    The nighttime hunting routine would be fine if they didn’t bring their prey inside and leave just the stomach in the middle of the floor in the dark. And there is usually more than one. Stomachs are horrible to stand on, in case you were wondering.

    Clyde is taking on an entire rabbit, although he did get some help.
    Clyde is taking on an entire rabbit, although he did get some help.

    Clyde excelled himself in June, having graduated from caterpillars as a kitten, into a whole rabbit. It was hard to tell if this was a kit or an adult by the time I was allowed near it, but there was certainly a lot of it. And once Clyde had turned his back, Bonnie, Clyde’s sister, was straight in.

    Clyde is digesting his rascaly rabbit.
    Clyde is digesting his rascaly rabbit.

    Perhaps unsurprisingly, after such a rich meal, Clyde needed a time-out and found ‘Bale One’ the best resting spot. But then Clyde will sleep just about anywhere, usually looking like he’s melted into shape.

    Cylde is sleeping where he shouldn't be sleeping!
    Clyde is sleeping where he shouldn’t be sleeping!

    After a long night of stalking prey, bringing fledglings or field mice tributes back to us, Clyde loves nothing more than to snuggle down on a recently vacated bed. Even if he’s not meant to sleep on beds!!

    Porcine

    As June rolled through, the temperature seemed to get hotter and for longer. I forget how many ‘official’ heatwaves we’ve had, but the last weekend in June was by far the hottest. It hit over 40c in the Midlands, where I was camping.

    The gilts take refuge in the bramble patch.
    The gilts take refuge in the bramble patch.

    This adds a challenge to the raising of the bacon. Because pigs can’t sweat and regulate their body temperature in high heat, they need a little help. The girl Kune Kunes love nothing better than to climb into their bramble hedge, enjoy a tender green snack and chill out.

    Pigs applying their own sunscreen, the farm manager should take note.
    Pigs applying their own sunscreen, the farm manager should take note.

    Despite the effort in May to build the Pig Pergola and create a large shaded spot, the boys weren’t great at seeking shelter. Instead, they much preferred to wallow and take advantage of the medicinal-like benefits of natural sun lotion. Who knew that mud was so good at stopping your testicles from becoming sunburnt?

    Piggy sketches are appearing everywhere.
    Piggy sketches are appearing everywhere.

    You know that farm life is starting to take over when animal doodles start to appear all over the place. This piggie wallowing, drawn by the farm manager, is one of my favourites.

    Fools on the Hill

    Despite having been forced ‘townies’ for so many years, rural life is definitely suiting us. Away from the chaos and commotion, the loving community we’ve found ourselves in has given us a freedom we knew we missed, but didn’t realise how amazing it is.

    Day after day, alone on the hill.
    Day after day, alone on the hill.

    After a long day farming or working, there is a definite calming satisfaction from ‘walking the grounds’. Not just to inspect the boundary conditions, but to see and feel the changes through the seasons and be far closer to the natural cycles of the world than ever before.

    The girls with the foolish grin are standing perfectly still.
    The girls with the foolish grin are standing perfectly still.

    One of the best ways to enjoy the farm, the community, the freedom, and the beauty is to hike up the hill (it’s steeper than it looks) and just watch. Take it all in, and say to ourselves, ‘this is living’.

    Washhouse

    As the farmhouse rebuild is planned to start at the beginning of July, we must vacate the building completely. For just over a year, the farmhouse utility room and kitchen have been in regular use, but as the eviction approaches, we need somewhere to do laundry and make jam.

    My usual construction techniques are deployed, albeit on such a small scale, it seems hard to call it ‘mega’. Outside dimensions are about 4m by 2m, making this the smallest shed I’ve built to date. However, this little room will have a LOT to do.

    With the base assembled, levelled, and allowed to ‘settle’, the wall started to take shape. I’ve learned a lot about tackling the builds from the previous Mega Sheds. Like previous builds, the back wall is hard up against the barn wall, so it needed to be fully clad before being raised. However, this time, the lighter build meant it could be lifted by two of us!

    Improving Drainage

    Since arriving at the farm and moving straight into a box in a field, we’ve had an issue with drainage on the ground outside. Perhaps drainage is the wrong description; the rainwater certainly hasn’t been going where it was best served, and a lot of dirt was being dragged inside.

    The string line is set with the right pitch to keep the drain flowing.
    The string line is set with the right pitch to keep the drain flowing.

    So one quiet Friday afternoon, I finally decided to get stuck in. I graded the soil and dug a trench for a cloth-lined French drain duct. We then buried the pipe in pea shingle to help drainage through the soil, into the pipe, and into the ‘allotment’.

    The many layers of rock that make up the drainage are a geologist's dream.
    The many layers of rock that make up the drainage are a geologist’s dream.

    Over one-half of the path, a few bags of MOT1 were laid and whacked flat. This was a little trickier than it looked. To improve drainage, the path has a gentle drop toward the centre line, allowing rain to run toward the pipe. This meant whacking two slopes and not just beating a level surface into the ground.

    Not only drier, but it looks so much better too!
    Not only drier, but it looks so much better too!

    Over the Mot1, a weed membrane was installed and topped with 20mm washed aggregate. Nice crunch aggregate so no one can sneak up on you, but it also takes up mud from wellies quite well and is generally smooth enough to walk on.

    It did seem a little bonkers to be doing this work in the middle of a heatwave, but as we will see next month, there is method to the madness. Not to mention, the materials have been on site for more than half a year without a chance to get them in the ground.

    The End, nearly!

    By the end of the month, I received some forced time off. I’d had a fantastic weekend of biking, getting to the ABR festival (the whole aim of learning to bike), and I was enjoying the return journey a LOT. A lovely flow, unrushed, a spot of breakfast on the way. Then I lost the back end of the bike, fish-tailed and went airborne. And man, did the first few impacts hurt. Unfortunately, with a broken back, farm work has taken a bit of a back seat, but it has been amazing watching friends and family rally and pick up some of the farm projects. So there will be a July article, but it might be a little differently paced than the usual monthly write-up.

  • John Wilder Mower – Drive Line Restoration

    John Wilder Mower – Drive Line Restoration

    In May 2025, I spotted a rather unusual ‘Mower Conditioner’ on Facebook Marketplace. In retrospect, it was probably overpriced, but I needed to cut the field, and this mower was local enough to collect and definitely ticked the vintage equipment box. I bought this before borrowing the Spearhead Flail; however, this mower conditioner is better suited to cutting the grass crop rather than pulverising it, the way the Spearhead does. This article is about the John Wilder Mower that I collected, and the repairs carried out this season (2026) to get some reliability back into the mower.

    The Wilder-Rainthorpe “Multi-Masta” Chopper

    The formerly bright orange ‘mower conditioner’ that I collected back in May 2025 was the “Wilder-Rainthorpe Multi-Masta Chopper”. I’ve found information about this particular mower rather scarce, which perhaps is not a surprise when the manufacture of these mowers ended in the 1960’s.

    Wallingford")	The original John Wilder Ltd nameplate, confirming this as a Wilder-Rainthorpe Multi-Masta flail mower conditioner.
    Wallingford”) The original John Wilder Ltd nameplate, confirming this as a Wilder-Rainthorpe Multi-Masta flail mower conditioner.

    The original Multi-Masta was intended as a heavy flail for reducing thick brash in forestry or road verge conditions. The mowing system was originally designed by Lincolnshire farmer Jim Rainthorpe and manufactured by John Wilder Ltd.

    The Wilder-Rainthorpe Multi-Masta flail mower conditioner at work in the field.
    The Wilder-Rainthorpe Multi-Masta flail mower conditioner at work in the field.

    The most common variation of the Multi-Masta system was the ‘Straw-Masta’, which was an inline-towed variant. There was also the ‘Haulm-Masta’ for topping potatoes, and the ‘Sila-Masta’. The variant of the Multi-Masta system I have is the ‘Flail Mower Conditioner’ with offset towing and a heavy rear roller for the ‘conditioning’ of the grass stems after the grass is cut.

    Reliability Issues

    Since collecting the Wilder-Rainthorpe Flail Mower Conditioner, it has been riddled with issues. The tin work is obviously showing its age at seventy years old, but there are no major failings of the mower body. When I first brought the mower home, it was completely missing its skirt in front of the flails, but this was quickly resolved with some heavy rubber matting.

    Installing a skirt in front of the flails to save rocks from hitting the tractor.
    Installing a skirt in front of the flails to save rocks from hitting the tractor.

    The bigger issues, however, were with the drive line from the PTO to the gearbox. The unusual rectangular shaft was very worn at every joint. Beyond being incredibly noisy, the drive line could be seen visually jumping around.

    The rear connection on the long propshaft fell apart in the previous grass season.
    The rear connection on the long propshaft fell apart in the previous grass season.

    At the end of the 2025 grass season, the driveline actually fell apart, more than once. There was no way that I could use the mower again without some serious repair work.

    Restoring the draw bar

    Most of the issues with the drivetrain vibration actually stemmed from the amount of wear throughout the draw bar and drivetrain supports. The easiest way to tackle these issues was to pull the draw bar out of the machine and bring it into the workshop.

    Bolts holding the drive line support were seriously worn out.

    Removing the various brackets was surprisingly easy, despite the corrosion on all the bolts and nuts. Just pulling the fixings out of the draw bar showed how much wear had accumulated over three-quarters of a century.

    Stripping the old orange paint from the draw bar back to bare metal.
    Stripping the old orange paint from the draw bar back to bare metal.

    With the draw bar disassembled, the old orange paint was stripped back using the angry brush on the angle grinder. While I was fully masked up, expecting the paint to be lead-based, I really wish I hadn’t sent the orange dust all over the workshop!

    	The draw bar coated in Vapourmatic red oxide primer ahead of top-coating.
    The draw bar coated in Vapourmatic red oxide primer ahead of top-coating.

    Once suitably prepared, the whole draw bar was coated in a Vapourmatic red oxide primer. I doubt this is as good as traditional red oxide primer from a time before chemicals were controlled, but having been using it for more than five years, I’m really impressed with the coverage and rust resistance.

    The restored draw bar finished in Abbey Orange synthetic enamel.
    The restored draw bar finished in Abbey Orange synthetic enamel.

    Then I gave the whole lot a top coat of Kramp synthetic enamel in a shade called Abbey Orange. In my defence, in the shop, this looked like a much more subtle colour, and it was the only orange paint on the shelf. It’s a little brighter than the original paint. While supposedly brushable, the brush and roller did a terrible job. In the end, I broke out my antique air spray gun and managed a reasonable finish.

    Towing Tongue

    One of the most worn-out parts on the mower was the connection between the machine and the tractor, which I will lovingly call the towing tongue. The cranked 25mm flat piece of steel had become rather thin in places, and the draw hole was no longer round, but more egg-shaped.

    Building up the worn towing tongue eyelet with MIG weld
    Building up the worn towing tongue eyelet with MIG weld

    To cure this issue, the towing tongue was cleaned back to bare metal and the surface brought back up with layers of weld from the MIG welder using 0.6mm wire. Before starting to build up the metal, a torch was used to heat up the metal to improve the bond with the first few layers of weld.

    The towing tongue eyelet after the first weld passes, ready for grinding back.
    The towing tongue eyelet after the first weld passes, ready for grinding back.

    There wasn’t too much wear on the top side of the towing tongue, as it does not sit in close contact with the tractor’s hitch. Once the tongue flats were built up, material was also added to the elongated hole, working from the middle of the metal thickness to the outer edges.

    The repaired towing tongue, ground flat and parallel, with the pin hole redrilled to 25mm.

    All ground back to flat, and both sides of the tongue were pretty much parallel, possibly for the first time in a long while. The hole for the pin was also drilled back out to a nice round 25mm. I chose not to harden the steel, as I would much rather have the tongue wear out than the clevis on the tractor.

    Propshaft Repairs

    During the previous season, one major and quite dangerous issue I faced was the propshaft actually falling apart. The outer shaft of both the long and short PTO bars was a simple round-section tube with an adapter welded onto the end to accept the rectangular (32mm x 35mm) inner bar.

    The repaired weld joint between the PTO outer tube and adapter.

    The welds between the tube and the adapter were a serious weak point. I expect this failed due to fatigue caused by excessive vibration. To give a true farm fix, I actually used stick / MMA to weld the parts back together as I figured this would get the most metal in and the best chance of avoiding the same failure.

    The cleaned and repainted outer sleeve of the short PTO shaft.

    The cleaned and welded outer sleeve of the PTO was then treated to a couple of layers of Kramp acrylic mat black paint. Probably a little excessive for a power take-off shaft, but it should help with cleaning in the future.

    The six-spline output end of the long propshaft before repainting.
    The six-spline output end of the long propshaft before repainting.

    The long shaft has a ‘normal’ six-spline output, which is supported by a bearing in a universal joint. So, like the short shaft, the adapter was rewelded into the end of the pipe and the whole metal surface stripped back.

    The long propshaft outer sleeve, cleaned, welded and repainted.
    The long propshaft outer sleeve, cleaned, welded and repainted.

    And to finish, the whole PTO outer sleeve was painted with the same black paint.

    Propshaft Carrier

    The propshaft intermediary carrier is made up of a bearing set in a ‘U-section’ holder, which is held into the propshaft carrier housing on a single bolt. This allows the propshaft to ‘swing’ up and down. The carrier is then attached to the draw bar through a single bolt, allowing the carrier housing to swivel left and right.

    Measuring the worn propshaft carrier bearing — 72mm x 35mm x 17mm.
    Measuring the worn propshaft carrier bearing — 72mm x 35mm x 17mm.

    These two axes of movement allow the propshafts to be aligned to the tractor, but once they have a lot of play, they induce vibration and failure. The bearing that was in the middle of the system was long past its best. Although it didn’t fall apart, it was very stiff and did not rotate smoothly.

    The propshaft carrier housing after cleaning, with the new bearing installed.
    The propshaft carrier housing after cleaning, with the new bearing installed.

    Fortunately, it was a fairly common size, 72 mm x 35mm x 17mm, and the £6 replacement was soon installed, allowing the PTO shaft to rotate smoothly.

    The propshaft carrier reassembled onto the freshly painted draw bar.
    The propshaft carrier reassembled onto the freshly painted draw bar.

    The bolt that held the propshaft carrier to the draw bar was completely seized and had to be cut off. The holes here were both worn into an oval and were drilled out to the next metric size. What I hadn’t realised is that the original holes were actually different sizes, with the bolt having a step in it. Hopefully this will hold up.

    Reassembling the draw bar

    Finally, after a few weeks, the draw bar could be assembled. Two of the most expensive parts in the rebuild were the propshaft guard and the new bolts used in the reassembly. The bolt cost might have been a result of ordering ten pieces of everything, just in case.

    The draw bar and propshaft carrier reassembled, with the carrier repositioned two inches back for better shaft engagement.
    The draw bar and propshaft carrier reassembled, with the carrier repositioned two inches back for better shaft engagement.

    When assembling the propshaft carrier assembly in the standard position in the draw bar, I felt there was not enough insertion of the inner shaft (story of my life!). My simple solution, after finding it impossible to order 32mm x 35mm bar stock, was to move the carrier back two inches with some new holes.

    The flail rotor bearing housing, back in place after the drive line rebuild.
    The flail rotor bearing housing, back in place after the drive line rebuild.

    The improvement in play in the drive line was immediately obvious. Just turning over by hand was so much easier and smoother, without the grinding and banging it used to have. Job done, I hope.

    Sharpening the Flails

    One last thing to prep on the mower was to sharpen the leading edge of the flails to get the best cut in the field. I’ve not yet been able to find any replacement flails, so I need to be careful about how much material I take off.

    The restored Wilder-Rainthorpe mower hitched up and ready for testing.
    The restored Wilder-Rainthorpe mower hitched up and ready for testing.

    Once hooked up to the tractor, I could use the hydraulics in the John Wilder mower to raise the whole ‘Multi-Masta’ off the ground. I learned long ago on hydraulic Citroens never to trust fluid pressure alone, so an axle stand was placed either side of the body.

    Sharpening the flail leading edges from inside the raised mower body.
    Sharpening the flail leading edges from inside the raised mower body.

    A fairly terrible picture, unfortunately, but armed with an 80-grit sanding disc on the cordless grinder (and ear defenders and visor), I climbed into the belly of the beast. There is actually a lot of room in there, and sharpening the leading edge of the flails was a surprisingly pleasant experience.

    Ready to bring in the grass?

    While the proof will be in the pudding, after a walk around with the grease gun, the vintage Wilder-Rainthorpe mower should be ready to bring in this year’s first grass crop. I’m confident that the work that has gone into restoring the mower’s drivetrain should last for at least another 50 years, although I would rather have a 90’s disc mower than this flail mower.